(By Russell)
They're all at it, live streaming gigs from the comfort of their own home. Josh Duffee decided to do something a little different. Working with a cell phone (we were in America!), a check list and a copy of Rich Johnson's authoritative work on today's subject, our amiable lockdown tour guide, in the company of his 'other half' Crystal, jumped in the motor and off we went in search of Bix.
Musician Josh Duffee lives in Davenport, Iowa, just as his subject did a century ago. Drummer Josh is what you would call an 'enthusiast', indeed an authority on the life and times of Leon Bix Beiderbecke. He knows the story inside out, he's visited the many sites of interest numerous times and today - Thursday 9 - we were invited to join him on his informative Bix Beiderbecke - a Driving Tour Around Davenport.
Beiderbecke's childhood home seemed like a good place to start. Duffee has been to the house countless times yet his sense of excitement was clearly evident. Our host stood on Bix's porch (1934 Grand Ave) conscious that he was walking in the footsteps of Bix, his bandmates and friends. Pointing to parts of the house that were in need of repair, Duffee thought out loud, suggesting a fundraising campaign could, perhaps, help rescue, help preserve this site of historic interest.* Presently unoccupied, imagine what it could be like as a sympathetically renovated visitor attraction!
Back in the motor we went passed the drugstore where Bix worked, as Josh said, as a 'soda jerk' then on to Davenport Central High School. An imposing looking place, Bix didn't spend too long here (Josh stated proudly that his son would soon be a student at the school located on Main St) before his parents sent him to Lake Forest Academy in Chicago. Josh noted this was the best thing that could have happened to a young Bix because at the time the Windy City's jazz scene was stompin'. Present day Lake Forest boasts its student receive a 'transformative boarding experience'. Transformative or not, Bix sure was in the right place!
Meanwhile, back home in Davenport, Josh headed for West 4th St. Two locations to take a peek at. First, the Danceland Ballroom. As we pulled up outside Josh exclaimed: Gosh! That's amazing! Our tour guide's enthusiasm bubbled over again as he stood outside the Coliseum Ballroom. The 'Col', as its known, is one of several buildings on the Bix tour that is on the National Register of Historic Places and little wonder given that George Gershwin with the Paul Whiteman Orchestra performed there as did King Oliver and Louis Armstrong.
Midway through our tour as we headed for the Capitol Theatre Josh informed us that the place was no longer in use. Pulling up outside the theatre two construction workers were taking a break. Hearing Josh's commentary one of the guys invited Josh, his cell phone and us to 'come on in'! Guided by flashlight, a wide-eyed Josh relived the times he and his band performed on the Capitol's stage. The pipe organ lay part dismantled, Josh recalled looking at the ornate fixture and fittings. Our flashlight guy informed Josh the theatre was in the middle of a major renovation or 'rehab' project. When the place reopens perhaps Josh will once again take to the Capitol Theatre's stage.
On 3rd St stands the Hotel Blackhawk. A grand affair, it's still in use today, although currently under lockdown. Josh maintains a Sunday brunch residency at the place. Today he arrived just as Mike, the hotel's chef, was entering the building. This proved to be another fortuitous moment. We were in luck, Josh, cell phone in hand, was granted access and wandered up a staircase to the first floor Gold Room. Back in the day a Fletcher Henderson-Jean Goldkette 'Battle of the Bands' event took place right here, right where Josh gigs every Sunday. In fact, a few years ago, Josh and Vince Giordano (from NYC) brought their bands in to the Blackhawk to recreate the showdown! What's more, Josh happened to mention that it was up on the eighth floor where Cary Grant died. Yes, an historic place, that's for sure!
A quick trip to the Beiderbecke Inn, a bed and breakfast place once run by Bix's grandparents, an at-a-respectful-distance look at the church which held Bix's funeral service then on to his final resting place, Oakdale Memorial Gardens. Josh Duffee said he has visited Bix's grave on many occasions. Today we went with him. In making his closing comments, Josh said it was beginning to snow here in Davenport, Iowa.
* Set the wheels in motion, Josh. An online funding campaign could attract world-wide support!
The Bix Beiderbecke Memorial Jazz Festival is held annually in north Davenport. Next year's event will be the fiftieth. It could be the jazz holiday of a lifetime! See: www.bixsociety.org.
1 comment :
I uploaded the Tour video from Facebook to YouTube: https://youtu.be/iM8mkUnT7Vk
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