Milano Happy Jazz Fest @ Spirit de Milan - Saturday Sept. 17

As the Original Prague Syncopated Orchestra took to the stage at Spirit de Milan on Thursday evening, musician Mauro Porro realised his dream of presenting the first Milano Happy Jazz Fest. Friday's programme featured musicians from France (Jazz à Bichon), Germany (Jungle Jazz Band), Holland (Roaring Jazz Cats) and, from the host nation, the Hot Gravel Eskimos. A daily masterclass, swing dance DJ sets, and, of course, Italian cuisine throughout the weekend made for a wonderful festive occasion. Your correspondent arrived in Milan late Friday evening, Saturday couldn't come soon enough...

Saturday, blue skies, 26°. Some twenty minutes' walk from the hotel, Spirit de Milan is a hidden gem. A local entrepreneur set about transforming the former crystal glass-making factory into a home for live performance. That was some six years ago, today, jazz concerts, swing dance events and much else have revitalised an important Milanese architectural landmark. A full day of concerts culminated in a performance by the Bratislava Hot Serenaders. A crowd in excess of one thousand people generated an amazing atmosphere: many seated, listening to the magnificent orchestra from Slovakia, many others dancing as if it were the 1920s. And in some ways it was, Juraj Bartos and ensemble looking the part, performing in a building which first opened in 1921.   

Scheduled to begin at half past ten, eventually the Bratislavas took to the stage sometime after 11:00pm. Musicianship of the highest order, applause rang out all evening, indeed into the early hours. Milanese certainly know how to party - two full sets of hot jazz, dancing, drinking, eating, applauding long and loud, it was close on 1:30am before the Bratislava Hot Serenaders, encore and curtain calls, were eventually allowed to depart the scene. 

Earlier in the day, Jazz à Bichon followed up their Friday evening concert with two more sets in an idyllic courtyard setting. Shona Taylor (cornet and vocals) marshalled the French outfit including veteran Jean Pierre Dubois (banjo, guitar) with the new boy, pianist Philippe Carment making a big impression, not least playing a James P Johnson solo piano piece. Opening with Hindustan, the band's two sets comprised lots of Bix, I'll See You in My Dreams to Puttin' on the Ritz. The sun shone, the basking audience loved it, what more could one ask for?

The Oliver River Gess Band lead the charge for the home side. From New Orleans the band would migrate, musically speaking, to Chicago and onto New York City, name-dropping as they went (Freddie Keppard, Kid Ory et al), Snake Rag, Struttin' with Some Barbecue, The Mooche and more. The 'more' included Cake Walkin' Babies, King Porter Stomp and Drop Me Off in Harlem. An excellent session. Next up, Cab Calloway. Well, sort of

. The Roaring Cats, from Holland, dressed for the part (tails etc), band and bandleader set about entertaining with a capital E. Who's Sorry Now?, East St Louis Toodle-oo, the 'entertainment' was relentless. 

As dusk fell, a N'Awlins street band appeared in the courtyard. Fairy lights twinkling, the DBB Brass Band snaked its way through the diners, not unlike Tyneside's Northern Monkey Brass Band. The wine flowing, cheese and meats being devoured, this was a jazz festival as our European neighbours do it. Magnifico! Russell